In Lagos, Nigeria

Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Before we could get off the airplane we had to complete some immigration papers.  It took a long time to get through the immigration line even though there were just a handful of people not from Nigeria.  They really looked us over and went through all our paperwork.  I thought it was just intimidation tactics.  I mean really, do we look like terrorists?  The whole time I could see in the distance our luggage going around the belts.  My 70 lb pink duffle bag makes a statement.  As soon as we approached the luggage we were bombarded by men with carts trying to secure our business.  They would not back off so we agreed and they loaded our five bags weighing a total of 290 lbs.  Clint went and exchanged our $100 bills for Naira so we could give the appropriate tips and have money for the baggage on the domestic flight the next day.  We did not see the man who was supposed to help us.  We learned later he was late because he was taking the first grade teacher to the domestic airport.  Next, we had to get through the baggage security line.  They were again looking at our passports and visas and then checking to make sure our bags matched the tags we had.  We were asked to show our medical prescriptions.  We did not have any and so we had to pay a steep fine of 5,000 Naira to bribe the officer.  We learned later that was nothing we really had to do and if our assistant had been there we would have gotten through that with just the luggage check.  We were told the local police would often stop us because we are white just to cause us trouble.

These two are selling the contents of the large plates on their heads

            Outside the terminal we still did not see our ride and then men helping us started getting pushy for payment and we did not know the money conversion or what was appropriate and Clint started getting really nervous.  He was sweating and pale.  I told the guys we were fine to just stand there and wait.  Finally our assistant showed up.  He was not happy these guys had run us out of the terminal.  He helped us pay the 500 Naira a person but he said next time to only allow one person to help with the cart.  It was nice to be on our way to the hotel.  We were both exhausted.  Lagos is the largest and most crowded city in Nigeria.  On the highways there were no lane divisions on the road except dividing the traffic going different directions.  Four lanes of cars were just weaving all over not even looking.  There were few stop lights and drivers just ignored them and the people on the side of the road.  We put our seat belts but most do not.  I thought we were going to hit somebody.  At one point the driver suddenly exited the road onto a rocky embankment which served as a median to make a u-turn.  He did not even stop for the oncoming traffic he just went.  There was honking and swearing but we didn’t say a word.

Many little businesses are just made from a ship's cargo container.

            The little hotel was inside a compound enclosed by tall cement walls with barbed wire on top.  It was like a safe, peaceful oasis.  Our room was pre-paid by the school but it included only one continental meal and had only one towel.  The room was on the second floor and there was no elevator.  The porters carried all our bags.  The man carrying my 70 lb pink bag tried to put it on his back on about the fourth step and he lost his balance and fell back a couple steps.  I thought for sure he would fall all the way and take the rest of us out.  He then put it on his left shoulder.  Unbelievable is all I can say.  I did however stay way back out of the way in case he had a problem.  The room was nice and cool but the bathroom was like a steam bath at a spa because they do not air condition the bathroom and do not use de-humidifiers.  We have found it to be the same everywhere we have stayed here in Nigeria.

Sidewalk Cuisine - We haven't tried it yet but eventually we will.

            I was nervous about the fees for the bags at the domestic airport so I did not eat dinner.  Clint went downstairs to the restaurant and ate both dinner and the free breakfast.  I was still trying to calm my stomach ache from the airplane ride so I just ate a protein bar my friend gave me to pack.  She was so wise because I did not get to eat until after I arrived in Calabar.  I went a whole day on just those bars and bottled water. 

            Our assistant took us to the domestic airport which was next door to the international one.  He went in with us and stayed with us until we went through security.  We ended up paying only about $200 for the bags but it was going to be more but the lady behind the counter started yelling at the man next to her who was weighing the bags.  Apparently he had his foot on the scale behind the luggage so we could not see.  She made him weigh them again and it was less.  I think she felt pressured by our assistant.  He actually works for the government.  He did not tell us how we came to get his assistance but our school is founded by the Cross River State governor’s wife.  We are one of her pet projects.  I am sure she had connections to make sure all the expats arrived safely.  An expat is someone from one nation working in another nation.

            When our bags went through x-ray we were allowed to climb over the scales and go behind the counter to the room where they were being examined.  The police were there and the airport security.  I sure was glad they did not think we were trying to smuggle anything in.  Going through security was pretty much the same as in the US except we had to pull more things out of our carry-on bags.  As I was putting my shoes back on the security agent rifled through one of my bags and wanted to know what my prescriptions were for.  She wanted to know what the C-Pap machine was for too.  She asked if it was for asthma.  Lesson to self, next time just say “yes”.

            We waited two and half hours for our flight to be called.  Nobody knows which gate is theirs.  Everyone just sits in one big room with windows and vendors.  The announcements were hard to understand and we did not know why our flight was so late.  We finally heard the announcement, showed our passports and visas again and got on the smaller jet.  I think it may it was about the size of a 727.  It was a smooth ride but it felt really good to be on the ground in Calabar and know I did not need to fly again until June.  Our principal and his wife who is our school counselor were at the airport to meet us.  They had a driver and the tech specialist with them so we could get our Internet stick and cell phones.  It was so nice to finally be here and ready to start our real adventure.